Case of Ignios Orígenes Vijariego Negro 2018 | Borja Pérez | DO Ycoden-Daute-Isora, Tenerife | $112.00 per bottle

Ignios Orígenes Vijariego Negro 2018 | DO Ycoden-Daute-Isora, Tenerife

Producer: Borja Pérez Viticultor (Ignios Orígenes)
Region: Icod de los Vinos, DO Ycoden-Daute-Isora, Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain
Grape Variety: Vijariego Negro (100%) — known as Sumoll on the Spanish mainland
Viticulture: Organic, indigenous yeasts, no additions except sulphur at bottling

The Vibe Vijariego Negro is one of the Canary Islands' most obscure indigenous red grapes — only a handful of producers bottle it as a single varietal, and most of those are on Tenerife. This single vineyard in Icod de los Vinos sits at over 750 metres above sea level on volcanic sandy-loam soils with a north-facing aspect, and produces fewer than 3,000 bottles per vintage. The vineyard took years to recover — Borja started working these vines in 2012 when the plot was in very poor condition, and the 2018 is the vintage where it finally delivered what the site was always capable of.

The Taste Spicy red and blackberries on the nose, with savory herbs and a dense underpinning of volcanic earth. Wet clay, cloves, balsamic — pungent and complex in a way that rewards patience. The grainy tannins that define Vijariego Negro are present but polished, with a vibrant freshness driving a serious, dry finish. Give it 90 minutes in the glass and liquorice and ink emerge from the back. More powerful than it first appears, and built to evolve for years.

The Story Borja Pérez is a fourth-generation Canarian winemaker who took charge of the family farm in 2011 with a single aim: to restore the excellence of indigenous Tenerife varieties by working volcanic soils, Atlantic winds, and traditional viticulture without modern shortcuts. The Ignios Orígenes range represents his top single-vineyard expressions — fermented in stainless steel and aged in a 1,500-litre foudre that respects the purity of the fruit without imposing wood character. Borja's brother designs the labels; the winery selects grapes twice — once on the vine, once at the winery — and bottles without stabilisation. Vijariego Negro may be obscure. The 2018 is the argument for why that shouldn't last.

Best Enjoyed With Serve at 15–16°C, decanted for at least 30 minutes. Slow-cooked lamb, wild mushrooms, mojo-marinated pork, or aged Canarian cheese. The volcanic mineral spine makes it one of the most food-serious reds in the Cosecha portfolio.

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