Case of Rupestris 2024 | $32.00 per bottle

$32.00 per bottle | $384.00 case of 12

The Origin: The entry white from Can Comas, Ramon Parera and Jordi Arnan's estate in the Riudebitlles valley of the Alt Penedès. First made in 2009, it is the wine that sets the Pardas house style and the one most people meet first. The Xarel·lo comes from five parcels (Muç, planted 1971, plus Rebato, Sant Pere, Sant Quintí and Escaletes) on very poor chalky clay; the Malvasia de Sitges from the deeper alluvial soils of Les Planes and Mir. Farmed organically: no herbicides or pesticides, no ploughing, cover crops left to protect the soil. See the full range from Celler Pardas.

The Profile: Saline, textural and mineral rather than fruity, which is the Pardas style. Xarel·lo is the soul of the wine and carries the limestone; the Malvasia brings lift without taking over. As Ramon puts it, "the taste is textural and good acidity, and that's it." Restrained ripeness and a bone-dry finish. 11.5% alcohol, pH 3.13. 92+ points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate. Drinking now through 2030.

The Craft: 2024 came at the end of a run of drought years in the Penedès, and Ramon counts it among the toughest he has seen; many vines struggled to survive. The Xarel·lo stalled and lost acidity, so the blend moved to 60% Xarel·lo and 40% Malvasia de Sitges, the most Malvasia Rupestris has ever had (recent vintages ran closer to 80/20). Malvasia's natural acidity was the tool for keeping the wine fresh. Picked by hand on 1–5 September and pressed at very low yields, with the team at the press for every stage; 55% free-run juice. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete, no malolactic, no fining, no oak. Lees stirring in tank, then rested in century-old concrete tanks. 15,667 bottles. Vegan.

The Pairing: Serve at 10–12°C. Grilled white fish, clams, anchovies on toast, fresh goat cheese, or vegetable dishes with some acid in them. An everyday white that stands up to the table.