Bodegas Cota 45 | UBE El Reventon 2024 | $54.00 per bottle

Cota 45 UBE El Reventón 2024 | VT Cádiz, Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Producer: Bodegas Cota 45 Winemaker: Ramiro Ibáñez Region: Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Marco de Jerez, Andalusia, Spain Grape Variety: Palomino (100%, single pago) Style: Unfortified, dry white — biological and oxidative aging

The Vibe This is Sherry deconstructed — the grape, the soil, and the flor, without the fortification. Ramiro Ibáñez founded Cota 45 in 2012 in a former boat repair shop overlooking the Guadalquivir river, driven by research showing that between roughly 1830 and the early 20th century, producers made dry, unfortified wines for local consumption — before the export market demanded strength and sweetness. El Reventón is his case study in what Palomino becomes when the winemaker steps back and lets the soil speak.

The Taste Saltiness on the nose with toasted almonds, brioche, lemon zest, and hints of pineapple. Rich on the palate — white peach, a persistent nuttiness — and a long saline finish. The oxidative phase adds depth without masking the vineyard: this is structured and concentrated in a way the coastal UBE bottlings are not, with the inland heat of the pago balanced by elevation and the hard, tosca cerrada albariza soil — a dense marl rich in diatoms that locks moisture in dry conditions and produces wines with real body and volume.

The Story The name Cota 45 refers to 45 metres above sea level, the altitude at which Ramiro believes the finest albariza soils are found. El Reventón sits upstream from Miraflores and Paganilla — a 45-hectare pago unique for its combination of high-quality albarizas and proximity to the Guadalquivir river. Grapes are harvested by hand, pressed whole-cluster into old botas ranging from 70 to 150 years old, and fermented spontaneously without temperature control. A veil of flor develops naturally, then the wine transitions to oxidative aging — softly filtered, minimal sulphur, bottled unfined. Ramiro is also a leading figure in the effort to document and resurrect the 119 grape varieties once cultivated in Jerez before industrial production reduced the region to two. 

Best Enjoyed With Serve at 10–12°C, ideally in a wider glass than you'd use for standard whites. Aged Manchego, Marcona almonds, roast chicken with herbs, grilled sole, or fried anchovies. More food-flexible than its profile suggests.

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